So far we have disassembled the panel, fabricated some filler panels, and sent the exposed parts out to be painted, covered with leather, etc. It will take awhile for the pieces to be returned, so at this point we can focus in on wiring.
Unlike computers or most anything you buys now days, avionics require that most of the wiring be fabricated manually. It is a tedious process and if you are not careful costly avionics can be destroyed. It is absolutely critical that the installation manuals are read cover to cover before attempting wiring on your own.
If you are not comfortable doing the tedious wiring I highly suggest outsourcing the core construction of the harness to a professional. NOTE: Businesses that focus on the Experimental Aircraft market such as Pacific Coast Avionics will custom build the core harness for a nominal fee. This is well worth the few hundred dollar investment.
Tooling
The tools required to build the harness depend on the avionics you are installing. 36G's project has products from Garmin, King and PS Engineering. King used to be the industry standard, but Garmin can now make that claim. If you are installing all new, I would recommend staying with the Garmin line. PSE has products that will work with either. The PMA-7000 that I have uses the King standard connectors whereas the PMA-8000 line follows the Garmin. Changing crimp connection types can add hundreds of dollars to a project since you will have to purchase the appropriate tools.
The first section of most installation manuals detail the tools and dyes required to do the job. Before starting a project like this it is important to read the manuals. If you find that the tooling is too costly then have someone else build your harness. You cannot do this without the proper crimp tools and connectors. You also need quality pin insertion and extraction tools. It is very easy to put a pin in the wrong location. When they are in, they are in. It is nearly impossible to remove them without the proper tool to do the job.
The remaining tools are standard wire tools. You will need sharp diagonal wire cutter, wire stripper, soldering iron/solder, heat shrink tubing and various crimp tools. You will also need an assortment of crimp connectors and other aviation approved pieces parts -- some of which may be hard to find. Aircraft Spruce sells some stuff, but I've found that Pacific Coast and Chief Aircraft have a better selection. I recommend calling some approved parts distributors and have them send you a catalog well before starting a project like this. It is easier to shop for parts when you have a book to reference.
You will, of course, need lots of wire. It is absolutley critical that you use aviation approved MIL SPEC wire. You cannot buy this stuff at Radio Shack. Aircraft Spruce, PCA, etc. all stock wire. Just make sure you purchase the appropriate size specified in the install manual. NOTE: Wire size is contrary to how most think. The larger guage number is actually the thiner wire (e.g. 18 guage wire is thicker than 20 guage). I generally go for about the middle of the range specified by the Install manuals to be safe. You don't want to go too large since it will add unnecessary weight and girth to your wire bundles.
Approved Data
Installation of avionics into a certificated aircraft requires that you use approved data. Most installation manuals qualify, but they do not cover everything required such as electrical load testing or how to solder a wire. The FAA Advisory Circular AC43.13 is the approved source for wiring standards. The booklet is very specific about how to wire an aircraft. Follow it to the letter unless the Approved Installation Manual says otherwise. The Install Manuals are always the one to follow if there is ever a conflict.
The installation will also require that an FAA Form 337 is completed and approved by an Aircraft Mechanic that holds an Inspection Authorization (IA). Again, if you are not an IA, you need to connect with someone approved to return the aircraft to service and work though the details well before starting a project like this. You do not want to find out you can't get someone to sign-off on your work or that they require you to change something that took you hours or weeks to complete.
Communication Protocols
36G's Extreme Avionics Makeover calls out for installing a Garmin GNS 430W GPS, Garmin MX-20 MFD, Garmin GTX-330 transponder, upgrading the KX-165 to one with a glideslope board, and integrating everything with the existing PS Engineering PMA-7000 Audio Panel, King KAP-150 Auto Pilot and Flight Director/HSI system. Most of the systems were built by different manufactures and what we are installing didn't even exist when the legacy system install manuals were written. Even systems from the same company have a different evolution. For example, the Garmin MX20 used to be owned by UPS AT; however, the GNS430 was built by Garmin Corp. The manuals do not always detail exactly how to hook the systems together. When you do, you create a Technically Advanced Airplane (TAA). Traditional avionics were primarily standalone and/or didn't rely on other equipment to function.
The key to being successful is to clearly understand how the systems will communicate. There are several types of protocols used in aircraft and the components have to be configured to use the right one or they will not function. I generally focus in on the most capable unit and figure out what it can and cannot do then expand outwards. In 36G's case, this would be the GNS430W GPS. The 430's and 530's are remarkable. They work with just about anything, which is good and bad. The good is it will probably work, the bad is that it is not always straightforward on how to get it to work.
To digress a moment, I thought I should discuss a bit about the GNS430W, which is a WAAS certified unit. WAAS certification is an entirely new standard that enables aircraft to fly ILS-like approaches solely using GPS signals (e.g. /G designation). The downside to installing a 430W/530W, however, is that they are only certified to work with external components specified in the Installation Manual. Even if they will talk to something else you cannot connect it and be in compliance with the STC. There are also very specific requirements about where the system is mounted, the antenna type, wiring, etc. Carefully read the manual before deciding to install one of these units. The GNS-430 and GNS-430W may look the same, but they are not the same. If you have components that are not certified and you intend on keeping them then you cannot interface them with the 430 without getting FAA field approval (good luck with that ;)
The next step in the communication protocol game is the MX-20, which was initially manufactured to work with UPS systems. The manual doesn't even mention Garmin who was a competitor at the time. The primary communication channel on the MX20 for position awareness is RS232. Those familiar with computers will recognize this format. It is a standard serial connection protocol that is found on most computers. For the MFD to function it must receive a continuous feed of longitude/latitude information in order to plot the aircraft position. The MX20 is useless without external input. The GNS430 has three RS232 ports. Any port will work with the MX20 as long as the 430 port is set to the Aviation protocol without altitude information.
The MX20 also requires a serial input from an external altitude encoder, which is why altitude information should not be sent form the GPS. Most legacy encoders use a graycode wire configuration, which is basically 10 wires that when grounded represent a hexadecimal number. Altitude is derived depending on what combination of wires are grounded. I will be installing a new Trans Cal serial/graycode encoder for 36G's Makeover. The Trans-Cal is an excellent unit and has 2 separate RS232 connections that can be independently configured (it technically has 3, but the third is for programming only). The key take-away from interfacing the encoder to the MX20 is that it uses the UPS Protocol for altitude information whereas the GTX-330 Transponder requires the Garmin protocol. They are both RS232, but the ASCII code string is different. The Trans-Cal, similar to most serial encoders, requires you to connect a PC directly to the unit in order to program the RS232 ports to operate different protocols. Read the manual carefully or you will not receive altitude information!
The next Technically Advanced System is the Garmin GTX-330 Transponder. This is a highly capable unit and will receive Traffic Information Service reports from the ground radar stations and display them on the GNS430 as well as the MFD. The GTX-330, however, communicates on the ARINC 429 bus, which is not the same protocol as the RS232. The GTX-330 also requires bidirectional signaling. In other words, the connected units need to talk to it and it needs to talk to them (e.g. requires two wires instead of one). The GNS430 has four ARINC 429 communication ports. The GTX330 can be connected to any of them so long as the 430 setup is configured for the GTX-330 with TIS at the same speed as the GTX330 is configured to send (generally set to high on both). Connecting the GTX330 to the MX20 requires that the MX20 has the Traffic Module installed (not all of them do). The basic difference is that the standard MX20 does not support ARINC 429. The GTX330 can also be connected to an Outside Air Temperature probe that will enable the unit to display pressure altitude. It will also send the OAT information to all units on the ARINC 429 bus. NOTE: the OAT used for the GTX-330 needs to be dedicated to the unit. You cannot connect it to an existing unit. Be careful here. Interfacing with the wrong type of probe will fry the 330.
The final technically advanced system I will be installing is a Garmin GDL-69A XM Radio/Weather unit. I haven't spoken much about this system since it is mounted on the remote avionics shelf, but in my opinion it is worth its weight in gold. It receives near real-time weather information and will display it on the GNS430 and/or the MX20. The A designation in the GDL-69A name indicates it will receive XM Radio as well -- All piped into the audio panel -- Wow! The GDL69 also requires a bidirectional signal, but uses the RS232 protocol. The 69A has 3 RS232 ports, so it can be connected to three control units simultaneously.
HSI and Autopilot Connections
The next consideration in connecting the GNS430 is interfacing it with the legacy systems for CDI indication and autopilot functionality. I will be integrating 36G's systems to the existing King KI525A HSI and KAP-150 autopilot. The legacy systems are connected using the tried and true variable resistance for course deviation. What this means is that the 430w will change the ground and/or power voltage, which will cause the needle to move in the opposite direction. Surprisingly enough, this is a very accurate system. The NAV flags are similar, but they receive positive voltage. When there is no power, the system is flagged. When there is power, the NAV flag will be lifted, the To or From will be displayed, etc.
The King 525A HSI is stil the industry leader. It is a very reliable and accurate unit. The key to getting it to work is to make sure that all connections are made exactly how the GNS430W says to connect them. Initially with 36G I had some issues getting the glideslope to operate. It turns out that in legacy KNS80 RNAV installations not all of the wires were connected. I removed a KNS80 and neglected to notice that the wire connections did not go completely through the system. Heed my warning. Read the manual and follow it to the letter.
The KAP-150 autopilot is about as easy as it gets. It has 4 primary wires that need to be connected and the system will follow it. Left & Right Course Deviation and Up and Down glideslope. In order to get the KAP-150 autopilot to follow the glideslope, however, you also need to connect the ILS Energize from the GNS430 to the Approach Active in the KAP-150. This tells the system that the approach is active. Without this wire connected the autopilot will not follow the glideslope.
Reference Material
I have found some links on the web you may find useful. They are not all approved data, but are helpful nonetheless.
King HSI 525A Test Procedures
HSI 525A Interface to GNS430 Schematic (PDF)
KMA-24 Audio Panel interface to GNS 430 (similar to PSE)
Various Avionics pin-out diagrams (Includes GNS430, KX165, etc)
Essco Aircraft Manuals Website -- great source for difficult to find Installation Manuals
FAA AC43.13-1B Advisory Circular
L J Aero's Aviation Links -- About every aviation related business is listed here
Stein Air -- Good source for miscellaneous parts and connectors
Now that the initial wire harness is complete, the next step will be installing everything in the Airplane!
Tuesday, May 01, 2007
Sunday, April 01, 2007
Avionics Upgrade - Part 6
Now that we have the parts removed, the next step in the project is to prep the exposed pieces for final assembly. This section will included covering the parts with leather, removing paint, powder coating, etc. It is important to start this step as soon as possible. It can take quite some time to get the parts back from the third-party finishers.
Leather Work
In my opinion, there is nothing better than the feel of fine glove leather -- especially on the control yokes. However, leather work is more of an art than a science. It isn't something that most owners can do on their own. It takes time, skill and precision to cover parts in leather. This is something that everyone that is in 36G will see and likely touch. It has to be right.
I looked around for quite some time to find a company to cover the yokes and glare shield. I wanted to find someone that does this fairly frequently. I didn't want them learning on 36G. I discovered Aero Comfort in San Antonio Texas. They are a well known aircraft finish facility. They work on all GA aircraft, but their bread and butter is complete interior restoration of corporate aircraft.
The above picture is from Aero Comfort's website. It shows the steps required to cover the yokes. The quality of their work is remarkable. The stitching and construction is second to none. They also add padding to make the parts a joyful experience to hold onto for hours. They can also do leather embroidery. 36G's project will have a stitched old Mooney Eagle on the center cap. They will also provide the switch lettering for areas that need it (e.g. Map Light, MIC Button, etc).
Custom leather is expensive; however, there are alternatives that can greatly reduce the cost. Most shops that do custom interiors for cars, buses, boats, etc. can most certainly do this type of work. The only thing to keep in mind is that the materials used in a certificated airplane need to meet FAR burn specifications to be legally installed. The person doing the work does not have to be an aircraft mechanic. In fact, many upgrades of this nature can be performed by the owner/operator. What I suggest doing is to buy the materials from an aviation interior suppler and have a local skilled craftsman do the work. This way you know the material meets the burn specifications. You do not want to take chances in this area. Materials that don't meet these specifications can ignite and fill a cockpit with toxic smoke in seconds.
Refurbishing the panel
The panel pieces are the next step in the process. 36G like many older aircraft has aged paint that needs to be refurbished. The key to creating a panel that looks new is to completely strip the original paint. Scratches or any blemish in the surface will be visible if the prep work is not completed properly.
Removing old paint, of course, is much easier said than done. It is a lot of work to strip the paint without damaging the material. The process for removing paint on aircraft panels is the same as removing it from the aircraft. You need aviation approved paint stripper. Aircraft Spruce and other aviation parts suppliers sell what you need to do this. NOTE: Paint removal products are considered hazardous material and can only be shipped via ground service. I recommend ordering paint removal products well before starting the project. Under no circumstances should you use chemicals not approved for aviation use. They can weaken the panel causing cracks and failures down the road. Don't even think about using non-approved strippers. Take your time and do it right.
In 36G's project, I also need to fabricate some filler pieces that will be installed above and below the right radio stack. If you recall from my earlier writings, the second COM radio will be mounted even with the top of the GNS430 to its left. This will be about 3/4" from the actual bottom of the stack. The filler panel above the right stack is also a bit longer since I will not have as many radios installed as before.
Fabrication of aluminum is fairly easy. You need a shear to cut the straight lines, an assortment of files to do the close finish work and a drill for the mounting holes. NOTE: Most FBO's have a shear that they will let you use if you don't have one. The trick to using a shear is to go in knowing they do not cut exactly perfect. What you do is get close to the line you want to cut using the shear and then file the rest to get a perfect fit. Another trick is to use the old piece as a template. In 36G's case, the width and the screw holes are exactly the same. The pieces were just a bit taller. All I had to do was trace the old piece onto the new and add the extra material needed. Tracing materially reduces the time it takes to fabricate the parts and virtually guarantees that the new pieces will fit during final assembly.
After the pieces are clean and fabricated, the next step in the process is to finish them. Standard painting techniques apply to these pieces like any other part of the airplane. You Zinc Chromate, sand, paint, sand, etc. until you get the finish you are going after. In 36G's case, however, I want a permanent scratch resistant finish. Panels tend to get bumped around and I want to make sure she looks as good as new for many, many years to come. The modern painting method is to use a powder coat finish, which is basically a plastic powder sprayed onto the parts that when heated melts and encapsulates the pieces with a hard laminated finish.
Sears Hardware and other suppliers sell the equipment to do powder coating, or you can take it to a shop that specializes in professional finish work. I chose to use a professional finisher since they have significantly better equipment than I do. The total cost for 36G was $150, which is well worth it.
Color selection is another key factor that must be taken into consideration. If you choose powder coat or traditional paint there are a million colors to choose from. The key to picking a color is to find one that can be easily matched it in the future. You can certainly mix it later, but my preference is to pick a color that can be matched with off of the shelf spray paint. It is a pain to mix paint in order to finish a screw head! In 36G's case, I picked a DuPont semi gloss white finish powder coat that is nearly an exact match to Sherwin Williams Krylon 1502 canned spray paint. I like matching to Sherwin Williams or other large paint chain because they are accessible throughout the world and have strict quality control. Sherwin Williams also makes Jet Glo and other high-tech aircraft finishes.
Custom Redwood Accent Pieces
The final finish work preparation in 36G's Extreme Makeover is to fabricate the wood accent panels. In my opinion, wood really sets off a panel. Wood is used in nearly every high-end application -- especially in cars, boats, corporate jets, etc. To do 36G right, wood needs to be incorporated into the design. I found that this was much easier said than done. Most wood shops cannot create the custom pieces required for an overlay. They need to be precision cut and laminated in order to meet FAR burn specs. At EAA AirVenture Oshkosh I found a company called Aero Enhancements that specializes in this type of work. The owner is Steve Dunning and he does amazing work. They can create all sorts of pieces including ones that are internally lighted. They have refined a process of taking thin cut real wood veneer that is used in cabinet making and sealing it. The end result is a waterproof, fire resistant overlay that is beautiful.
The key to making the wood pieces, however, is to cut them so everything fits perfectly. Most Aircraft panels were made by hand. The holes, lines, etc. are not perfect. When you create a wood overlay it needs to fit exactly. Fit is especially critical for 36G's circuit breaker panel. Every hole has to align perfectly. To accomplish this, the original pieces must be completely removed and digitized using AutoCAD or other vector based software. Aero Enhancements has the equipment needed to do this work, but it takes time to get on their schedule. I chose to do most of it myself using AutoCAD for the digitizing and Adobe Illustrator for the silk screened lettering placement. NOTE: if you don't own the equipment to do this type of work, most larger city's have drafting shops that can either do this for you or you can rent the equipment. Kinko's also has the Adobe products installed on machines you can rent by the hour.
The final product is a digital image of the pieces that are loaded into a computer controlled router. The silk screened lettering is also computer generated and printed directly onto the wood prior to cutting. The end result is a precision cut piece of wood that fits perfectly.
We are now complete with the prep work and the pieces are sent out to the vendors for finishing. Next on the agenda is rough wiring the avionics and preparing the aircraft for installation.
Leather Work
In my opinion, there is nothing better than the feel of fine glove leather -- especially on the control yokes. However, leather work is more of an art than a science. It isn't something that most owners can do on their own. It takes time, skill and precision to cover parts in leather. This is something that everyone that is in 36G will see and likely touch. It has to be right.
I looked around for quite some time to find a company to cover the yokes and glare shield. I wanted to find someone that does this fairly frequently. I didn't want them learning on 36G. I discovered Aero Comfort in San Antonio Texas. They are a well known aircraft finish facility. They work on all GA aircraft, but their bread and butter is complete interior restoration of corporate aircraft.
The above picture is from Aero Comfort's website. It shows the steps required to cover the yokes. The quality of their work is remarkable. The stitching and construction is second to none. They also add padding to make the parts a joyful experience to hold onto for hours. They can also do leather embroidery. 36G's project will have a stitched old Mooney Eagle on the center cap. They will also provide the switch lettering for areas that need it (e.g. Map Light, MIC Button, etc).
Custom leather is expensive; however, there are alternatives that can greatly reduce the cost. Most shops that do custom interiors for cars, buses, boats, etc. can most certainly do this type of work. The only thing to keep in mind is that the materials used in a certificated airplane need to meet FAR burn specifications to be legally installed. The person doing the work does not have to be an aircraft mechanic. In fact, many upgrades of this nature can be performed by the owner/operator. What I suggest doing is to buy the materials from an aviation interior suppler and have a local skilled craftsman do the work. This way you know the material meets the burn specifications. You do not want to take chances in this area. Materials that don't meet these specifications can ignite and fill a cockpit with toxic smoke in seconds.
Refurbishing the panel
The panel pieces are the next step in the process. 36G like many older aircraft has aged paint that needs to be refurbished. The key to creating a panel that looks new is to completely strip the original paint. Scratches or any blemish in the surface will be visible if the prep work is not completed properly.
Removing old paint, of course, is much easier said than done. It is a lot of work to strip the paint without damaging the material. The process for removing paint on aircraft panels is the same as removing it from the aircraft. You need aviation approved paint stripper. Aircraft Spruce and other aviation parts suppliers sell what you need to do this. NOTE: Paint removal products are considered hazardous material and can only be shipped via ground service. I recommend ordering paint removal products well before starting the project. Under no circumstances should you use chemicals not approved for aviation use. They can weaken the panel causing cracks and failures down the road. Don't even think about using non-approved strippers. Take your time and do it right.
In 36G's project, I also need to fabricate some filler pieces that will be installed above and below the right radio stack. If you recall from my earlier writings, the second COM radio will be mounted even with the top of the GNS430 to its left. This will be about 3/4" from the actual bottom of the stack. The filler panel above the right stack is also a bit longer since I will not have as many radios installed as before.
Fabrication of aluminum is fairly easy. You need a shear to cut the straight lines, an assortment of files to do the close finish work and a drill for the mounting holes. NOTE: Most FBO's have a shear that they will let you use if you don't have one. The trick to using a shear is to go in knowing they do not cut exactly perfect. What you do is get close to the line you want to cut using the shear and then file the rest to get a perfect fit. Another trick is to use the old piece as a template. In 36G's case, the width and the screw holes are exactly the same. The pieces were just a bit taller. All I had to do was trace the old piece onto the new and add the extra material needed. Tracing materially reduces the time it takes to fabricate the parts and virtually guarantees that the new pieces will fit during final assembly.
After the pieces are clean and fabricated, the next step in the process is to finish them. Standard painting techniques apply to these pieces like any other part of the airplane. You Zinc Chromate, sand, paint, sand, etc. until you get the finish you are going after. In 36G's case, however, I want a permanent scratch resistant finish. Panels tend to get bumped around and I want to make sure she looks as good as new for many, many years to come. The modern painting method is to use a powder coat finish, which is basically a plastic powder sprayed onto the parts that when heated melts and encapsulates the pieces with a hard laminated finish.
Sears Hardware and other suppliers sell the equipment to do powder coating, or you can take it to a shop that specializes in professional finish work. I chose to use a professional finisher since they have significantly better equipment than I do. The total cost for 36G was $150, which is well worth it.
Color selection is another key factor that must be taken into consideration. If you choose powder coat or traditional paint there are a million colors to choose from. The key to picking a color is to find one that can be easily matched it in the future. You can certainly mix it later, but my preference is to pick a color that can be matched with off of the shelf spray paint. It is a pain to mix paint in order to finish a screw head! In 36G's case, I picked a DuPont semi gloss white finish powder coat that is nearly an exact match to Sherwin Williams Krylon 1502 canned spray paint. I like matching to Sherwin Williams or other large paint chain because they are accessible throughout the world and have strict quality control. Sherwin Williams also makes Jet Glo and other high-tech aircraft finishes.
Custom Redwood Accent Pieces
The final finish work preparation in 36G's Extreme Makeover is to fabricate the wood accent panels. In my opinion, wood really sets off a panel. Wood is used in nearly every high-end application -- especially in cars, boats, corporate jets, etc. To do 36G right, wood needs to be incorporated into the design. I found that this was much easier said than done. Most wood shops cannot create the custom pieces required for an overlay. They need to be precision cut and laminated in order to meet FAR burn specs. At EAA AirVenture Oshkosh I found a company called Aero Enhancements that specializes in this type of work. The owner is Steve Dunning and he does amazing work. They can create all sorts of pieces including ones that are internally lighted. They have refined a process of taking thin cut real wood veneer that is used in cabinet making and sealing it. The end result is a waterproof, fire resistant overlay that is beautiful.
The key to making the wood pieces, however, is to cut them so everything fits perfectly. Most Aircraft panels were made by hand. The holes, lines, etc. are not perfect. When you create a wood overlay it needs to fit exactly. Fit is especially critical for 36G's circuit breaker panel. Every hole has to align perfectly. To accomplish this, the original pieces must be completely removed and digitized using AutoCAD or other vector based software. Aero Enhancements has the equipment needed to do this work, but it takes time to get on their schedule. I chose to do most of it myself using AutoCAD for the digitizing and Adobe Illustrator for the silk screened lettering placement. NOTE: if you don't own the equipment to do this type of work, most larger city's have drafting shops that can either do this for you or you can rent the equipment. Kinko's also has the Adobe products installed on machines you can rent by the hour.
The final product is a digital image of the pieces that are loaded into a computer controlled router. The silk screened lettering is also computer generated and printed directly onto the wood prior to cutting. The end result is a precision cut piece of wood that fits perfectly.We are now complete with the prep work and the pieces are sent out to the vendors for finishing. Next on the agenda is rough wiring the avionics and preparing the aircraft for installation.
Thursday, March 01, 2007
Avionics Upgrade - Part 5
Before we start dismantling the panel there are a few things that must be kept in mind prior to starting a project of this magnitude.
The first and foremost is keep the project organized. I cannot stress this enough. There are many specialized springs, spacers, switches and pieces parts that come out easy and are essential for reassembly. Not everything can easily be replaced either. And if they can, be prepared to pay a pretty penny. A good example on 36G is the electric trim switch. It is small and easy to remove; however, if you lose or damage it get out your checkbook. The cost of this one switch is nearly $700!
The second is to take pictures of everything! Use a digital camera or disposable, but document all key components of whatever you are taking apart. Don't expect to rely on an aircraft maintenance manual or illustrated parts guide to tell you everything you need to know -- it won't. Aircraft manuals typically do not get into the detail required to put things back together. Take pictures of the switch locations, all placards, unique mounting assemblies, etc. Trust me on this one...You cannot have too many pictures.
The third, and in my opinion most important, trick of the trade is to keep all of the parts of each section disassembled together in small sealable containers and clearly label what is stored in them (e.g. Pilot Instruments, Pilot Switch Assembly, Circuit Breaker Panel, etc). Most parts are small and often look alike. It is critical that you keep them separated. You can use anything that tightly closes. My preference is to use small Ziploc sandwich bags and/or Rubber Maid reusable hard side containers. They are cheap and seal tightly. If they fall off of a shelf they generally will remain closed. The Rubber Maid containers are very nice because they are also stackable. What I do is use the Ziploc bags to store small parts, put those bags in the Rubber Maid containers and then stack them in a location close to the work area in case I need them.
Ok, we have a plan, let the project begin!
It can be a daunting task to tear into an aircraft panel, but it isn't as difficult as it looks as long as you take your time. The tools required are generally not much more than a Phillips screwdriver and some wrenches. The easiest way to approach the project is to figure out how it was put together in the first place. In most GA airplanes, the pilots instruments are the last to be installed. Mooney installed the panel from the right (copilot) side, then the avionics, then they pilot panel and finished off with the glare shield. To remove the pieces the most straightforward way to do it is to start on the left (pilot) side and finish on the right (copilot) side.
The first component to remove on 36G is the glare shield. This is easy enough. A couple of screws and it slides out. This opens up access to the panel from the top making it easier to see how everything fits together. The next step is to carefully remove the pilot instruments. I like pulling the indicators on top since they are easy to reach and work down. I start with the Artificial Horizon (36G's Flight Director) since it is a $8,000 part! NOTE: It is important to seal the vac hose inputs with caps or tape. You do not want dust to get into the AI. I then remove the Altimeter, avionics indicators, airspeed, etc. until all of the 3" parts are removed and secured. After the large parts are removed, this frees up access to all of the other supporting pieces such as fuel gages, switches, etc. These parts are generally easy to remove. The final step in removing the pilot panel is to remove the main panel mounting screws.
As you can see above, the panel is nearly removed; however, the gear switch is riveted onto the panel. I had to drill 4-rivets and the panel was finally removed! NOTE: Make sure and label the gear switch! You need to know which way is down.
After the pilot panel is removed, the project moves into the main avionics stack. Generally speaking, the main riser bars in most radio stacks are mounted to the main structure. A few screws will loosen it up and it can be pulled forward. The wire backplates can then be removed and the entire assembly can then be removed. It is a bit difficult to see in this picture, but I put arrows around the 8 or so screws that needed to be removed to remove the entire radio stack in 36G.
The final removal step is to disassemble the circuit breaker panel. This panel is designed to be slid forward and aft, but it isn't easy to remove. It takes time to do this one right. First remove the CB panel mount nuts, then the gauges, then the switch, then drill the rivets holding it to the airframe, and it's out!
The level of difficulty of the disassembly process is a 2 out of 5. The key is to take your time, label your parts and don't break anything. I completed this entire project in about 3 hours.
As you can see above, 36G is now at the point of no return. We are 100% committed to finishing the project. She's grounded until we do. Next we'll talk a bit about prepping the parts, removing the unused wiring and getting her ready for equipment installation.
The first and foremost is keep the project organized. I cannot stress this enough. There are many specialized springs, spacers, switches and pieces parts that come out easy and are essential for reassembly. Not everything can easily be replaced either. And if they can, be prepared to pay a pretty penny. A good example on 36G is the electric trim switch. It is small and easy to remove; however, if you lose or damage it get out your checkbook. The cost of this one switch is nearly $700!
The second is to take pictures of everything! Use a digital camera or disposable, but document all key components of whatever you are taking apart. Don't expect to rely on an aircraft maintenance manual or illustrated parts guide to tell you everything you need to know -- it won't. Aircraft manuals typically do not get into the detail required to put things back together. Take pictures of the switch locations, all placards, unique mounting assemblies, etc. Trust me on this one...You cannot have too many pictures.
The third, and in my opinion most important, trick of the trade is to keep all of the parts of each section disassembled together in small sealable containers and clearly label what is stored in them (e.g. Pilot Instruments, Pilot Switch Assembly, Circuit Breaker Panel, etc). Most parts are small and often look alike. It is critical that you keep them separated. You can use anything that tightly closes. My preference is to use small Ziploc sandwich bags and/or Rubber Maid reusable hard side containers. They are cheap and seal tightly. If they fall off of a shelf they generally will remain closed. The Rubber Maid containers are very nice because they are also stackable. What I do is use the Ziploc bags to store small parts, put those bags in the Rubber Maid containers and then stack them in a location close to the work area in case I need them.
Ok, we have a plan, let the project begin!
It can be a daunting task to tear into an aircraft panel, but it isn't as difficult as it looks as long as you take your time. The tools required are generally not much more than a Phillips screwdriver and some wrenches. The easiest way to approach the project is to figure out how it was put together in the first place. In most GA airplanes, the pilots instruments are the last to be installed. Mooney installed the panel from the right (copilot) side, then the avionics, then they pilot panel and finished off with the glare shield. To remove the pieces the most straightforward way to do it is to start on the left (pilot) side and finish on the right (copilot) side.
The first component to remove on 36G is the glare shield. This is easy enough. A couple of screws and it slides out. This opens up access to the panel from the top making it easier to see how everything fits together. The next step is to carefully remove the pilot instruments. I like pulling the indicators on top since they are easy to reach and work down. I start with the Artificial Horizon (36G's Flight Director) since it is a $8,000 part! NOTE: It is important to seal the vac hose inputs with caps or tape. You do not want dust to get into the AI. I then remove the Altimeter, avionics indicators, airspeed, etc. until all of the 3" parts are removed and secured. After the large parts are removed, this frees up access to all of the other supporting pieces such as fuel gages, switches, etc. These parts are generally easy to remove. The final step in removing the pilot panel is to remove the main panel mounting screws.
As you can see above, the panel is nearly removed; however, the gear switch is riveted onto the panel. I had to drill 4-rivets and the panel was finally removed! NOTE: Make sure and label the gear switch! You need to know which way is down.
After the pilot panel is removed, the project moves into the main avionics stack. Generally speaking, the main riser bars in most radio stacks are mounted to the main structure. A few screws will loosen it up and it can be pulled forward. The wire backplates can then be removed and the entire assembly can then be removed. It is a bit difficult to see in this picture, but I put arrows around the 8 or so screws that needed to be removed to remove the entire radio stack in 36G.
The final removal step is to disassemble the circuit breaker panel. This panel is designed to be slid forward and aft, but it isn't easy to remove. It takes time to do this one right. First remove the CB panel mount nuts, then the gauges, then the switch, then drill the rivets holding it to the airframe, and it's out!
The level of difficulty of the disassembly process is a 2 out of 5. The key is to take your time, label your parts and don't break anything. I completed this entire project in about 3 hours.
As you can see above, 36G is now at the point of no return. We are 100% committed to finishing the project. She's grounded until we do. Next we'll talk a bit about prepping the parts, removing the unused wiring and getting her ready for equipment installation.
Thursday, February 01, 2007
Avionics Upgrade - Part 4
The key to the success of any project is to ascertain exactly what needs to be completed well before the project starts. Goal setting 101: "Begin with the end in mind." I approached 36G's Avionics makeover the same way I approach any project I manage -- I established the scope, time line and set clear expectations.
I developed 36G's scope using a few tricks I've learned over the years. First, I kept a notepad in the plane and jotted down things I liked when flying and things I didn't. Second, I took the picture below and set it as my computer desktop wallpaper. Every day and night as I worked, I would see this picture and add to my notes on things I wanted to change. Finally, I used Trade-a-Plane as a source for ideas. I reviewed every Mooney, Bonanza, etc. posting I could find that had pictures of panels. Everything I liked I wrote it down, kept the pictures, etc. I kept this process going until I got to the point where there was nothing else I could think of that I wanted or needed to do. In other words, the project was defined!
The scope of the project took several months to develop, but there were some key decisions I had to make along the way...
Mooney's are a very capable airplane. The designers knew they would be hard-IFR machines. A lot of thought went into their panels. I stared at this picture for months and only found a few alterations I wanted to make:
I quickly discovered that the Mooney stack isn't tall enough to stack two nav/com radios, the MFD, audio panel, auto pilot, etc., so this was the first design compromise I had to make... Do I want the MFD in the left panel closest to the pilot or do I want to move it in front of the copilot? The MFD is an auxiliary system, so it could be mounted in the right radio stack, but it would be easier to read and use if it is in the main stack. The Garmin install manual also recommends that the MFD is installed in the top left stack. If I put the MFD in the main stack then there is no way to get the second COM into that stack without moving the autopilot or audio panel. The second COM is used more by the copilot anyhow, so I decided to mount COM2 in the right stack. COM1 on the Left, COM 2 on the right.
The right panel will have the second COM radio and the Transponder. This decision was simple enough since that is all that is left. Or is it?
Typically most Transponders are mounted on the bottom of whatever stack they are in; however, there are other points to consider. For example, the FAA is pushing for ADS-B as the primary technology to replace radar facilities in the future. ADS-B is not available in Chicago where I live now, which is why I'm not installing it now, but it certainly will be soon enough. Aircraft live a long life. It is important to keep in mind that when going through an upgrade that plans are made for future technology upgrades. At some point the traditional Transponder will be obsolete. ADS-B does not require panel space since it is controlled by the MFD and the main brain is located on an avionics shelf. If I mount the Transponder above COM2 it will be easier to remove down the road. The decision is made...the Transponder will be on top of the right radio stack.
Another decision I had to make was how will the radios be aligned. Most COM radios are on top of each other (COM1 on top, COM2 on bottom) and some are directly left/right of each other (COM1 on left, COM2 on right); however, the KX-165 is not as tall as the GNS430. If I mount COM2 at the lowest point in the right stack it will not align with the top of the GNS430. It will look better and also leave room for swapping the KX165 to a secondary GNS430 if I align the tops of the units.
As I mentioned above, I will move the current engine monitor to the main pilot panel; however, I may want to add a more sophisticated engine monitor with an LCD display in the future. I will fabricate the right panel with a filler plate and room for this modification. I will couple the extension cable at this location to ease future installation as well.
This drawing isn't my best work, but the equipment is close to scale and gives a visual of what I'm going after. Layout is a critical step in the process. By the way, don't forget to validate the depth of the equipment as well. Some of these boxes go deep into the panel. Trust me, you do not want to attempt to mount the avionics and find out they don't fit! If you get it wrong at this stage, it could take weeks to correct. Not to mention you just bought a bunch of stuff you can't use...
The good news is that everything we want will fit. Now I need to turn my attention to the condition of the panel itself. As you can see in the photo, 36G's panel has yellowed over the years. It looks terrible! Certainly not worthy of 36G's Extreme Makeover. Entirely removing the panel is a difficult decision to make, but the panel has to be removed, striped and painted or the project won't look complete.
There are some other cosmetic items that also can be addressed at this point as well. The first is the Yokes. They were a cool matching white in back in 1988, but now days most high-end yokes are leather. The yokes have lots of wire that will need to be replaced during the install, so it make since to do it now. The glare shield that covers the panel is in very good condition, but I like leather! That decision is easy -- cover everything I can in leather!
I am going for a high-end look. I drew some of my inspiration from high-end products such as cars, planes, boats, etc. They all use real wood for accents, so I believe wood should be incorporated into the design. There is nothing like a beautifully finished piece of wood. I also have a lot of lettering that needs to be silk screened. I can custom design the wood pieces on my PC and outsource the work to a shop that can silkscreen lettering on the wood while they are at it. This will kill two birds with one stone. The final decision is made -- use custom wood overlays.
Next in the series we'll get our hands dirty by Pulling the panel, organizing the parts, and prepping 36G for her Extreme Avionics Makeover.
I developed 36G's scope using a few tricks I've learned over the years. First, I kept a notepad in the plane and jotted down things I liked when flying and things I didn't. Second, I took the picture below and set it as my computer desktop wallpaper. Every day and night as I worked, I would see this picture and add to my notes on things I wanted to change. Finally, I used Trade-a-Plane as a source for ideas. I reviewed every Mooney, Bonanza, etc. posting I could find that had pictures of panels. Everything I liked I wrote it down, kept the pictures, etc. I kept this process going until I got to the point where there was nothing else I could think of that I wanted or needed to do. In other words, the project was defined!
The scope of the project took several months to develop, but there were some key decisions I had to make along the way...Mooney's are a very capable airplane. The designers knew they would be hard-IFR machines. A lot of thought went into their panels. I stared at this picture for months and only found a few alterations I wanted to make:
- The Emergency Locater Transmitter (ELT) arm switch. It is hard to see in the photo, but it is above the right radio stack. In an emergency I want to be able to flip it on without having to hunt for it. Most new planes have this located on the pilots side. I decided to move it to a more standard location.
- The prop deice amp meter. This gage shows if prop heat is on and working. It was also over the second radio stack in front of the copilot. If I am using prop deice it will likely be in a stressful situation. I certainly want to see it! During the upgrade I will move this to the pilot panel.
- The JPI EDM-700 Engine Monitor is one that I installed right after I purchased N5236G. I installed it over the second radio stack since I didn't have space on the pilots side. This location is difficult to see when flying. After the upgrade I will have the space, so I will move it over to the pilot panel.
I quickly discovered that the Mooney stack isn't tall enough to stack two nav/com radios, the MFD, audio panel, auto pilot, etc., so this was the first design compromise I had to make... Do I want the MFD in the left panel closest to the pilot or do I want to move it in front of the copilot? The MFD is an auxiliary system, so it could be mounted in the right radio stack, but it would be easier to read and use if it is in the main stack. The Garmin install manual also recommends that the MFD is installed in the top left stack. If I put the MFD in the main stack then there is no way to get the second COM into that stack without moving the autopilot or audio panel. The second COM is used more by the copilot anyhow, so I decided to mount COM2 in the right stack. COM1 on the Left, COM 2 on the right.
The right panel will have the second COM radio and the Transponder. This decision was simple enough since that is all that is left. Or is it?
Typically most Transponders are mounted on the bottom of whatever stack they are in; however, there are other points to consider. For example, the FAA is pushing for ADS-B as the primary technology to replace radar facilities in the future. ADS-B is not available in Chicago where I live now, which is why I'm not installing it now, but it certainly will be soon enough. Aircraft live a long life. It is important to keep in mind that when going through an upgrade that plans are made for future technology upgrades. At some point the traditional Transponder will be obsolete. ADS-B does not require panel space since it is controlled by the MFD and the main brain is located on an avionics shelf. If I mount the Transponder above COM2 it will be easier to remove down the road. The decision is made...the Transponder will be on top of the right radio stack.
Another decision I had to make was how will the radios be aligned. Most COM radios are on top of each other (COM1 on top, COM2 on bottom) and some are directly left/right of each other (COM1 on left, COM2 on right); however, the KX-165 is not as tall as the GNS430. If I mount COM2 at the lowest point in the right stack it will not align with the top of the GNS430. It will look better and also leave room for swapping the KX165 to a secondary GNS430 if I align the tops of the units.
As I mentioned above, I will move the current engine monitor to the main pilot panel; however, I may want to add a more sophisticated engine monitor with an LCD display in the future. I will fabricate the right panel with a filler plate and room for this modification. I will couple the extension cable at this location to ease future installation as well.
This drawing isn't my best work, but the equipment is close to scale and gives a visual of what I'm going after. Layout is a critical step in the process. By the way, don't forget to validate the depth of the equipment as well. Some of these boxes go deep into the panel. Trust me, you do not want to attempt to mount the avionics and find out they don't fit! If you get it wrong at this stage, it could take weeks to correct. Not to mention you just bought a bunch of stuff you can't use...The good news is that everything we want will fit. Now I need to turn my attention to the condition of the panel itself. As you can see in the photo, 36G's panel has yellowed over the years. It looks terrible! Certainly not worthy of 36G's Extreme Makeover. Entirely removing the panel is a difficult decision to make, but the panel has to be removed, striped and painted or the project won't look complete.
There are some other cosmetic items that also can be addressed at this point as well. The first is the Yokes. They were a cool matching white in back in 1988, but now days most high-end yokes are leather. The yokes have lots of wire that will need to be replaced during the install, so it make since to do it now. The glare shield that covers the panel is in very good condition, but I like leather! That decision is easy -- cover everything I can in leather!
I am going for a high-end look. I drew some of my inspiration from high-end products such as cars, planes, boats, etc. They all use real wood for accents, so I believe wood should be incorporated into the design. There is nothing like a beautifully finished piece of wood. I also have a lot of lettering that needs to be silk screened. I can custom design the wood pieces on my PC and outsource the work to a shop that can silkscreen lettering on the wood while they are at it. This will kill two birds with one stone. The final decision is made -- use custom wood overlays.
Next in the series we'll get our hands dirty by Pulling the panel, organizing the parts, and prepping 36G for her Extreme Avionics Makeover.
Monday, January 01, 2007
Avionics Upgrade - Part 3
The cost of avionics is a barrier that many aircraft owners are unable or unwilling to cross. Investing material capital into an airplane that most likely will not be returned on resell is a difficult bullet to bite. In my opinion, the exorbitant cost of upgrades is why so many airplanes are flying around with outdated and inoperative equipment. I thought I'd share some tips I've discovered along the way that have helped me materially reduce the costs of my avionics upgrade.
It is nice to be in a position to walk into an avionics shop and buy new equipment from a dealer; however, new equipment comes with a new price tag. Saving a few bucks isn't the focus for my Mooney project, but keeping the aircraft in line with market value is important to keep in mind. For example, the Vref aircraft valuation service adds $5,000 to the value of 36G if a GNS430 or 530 is installed. A new 430 cost $7,995 at Pacific Coast ($10,195 installed). If you pay full retail you take an immediate 50% loss if you buy a new 430 from an Avionics shop. If you buy a 530 you are loosing about 2/3's your initial investment.
The airplanes we are upgrading are used. Installing good serviceable used equipment is certainly an option for owners with a tight budget or that may want to sell the airplane in the near future. The better the avionics the easier it is to sell a used airplane. One with dated equipment will likely go below market value and/or sit on the market for months.
When I started my TAA project I was surprised to learn that there is a big market selling used and new avionics on eBay. Your first thought maybe similar to mine -- all they sell is junk on eBay. This is somewhat true; however, there are also many deals to be had. In fact, there are quite a few reputable dealers that regularly sell used avionics on eBay such as JA Air Center and Pacific Coast Avionics eBay stores. JA Air Center is the #1 Garmin reseller in the world and PCA is a well regarded avionic and pilot supply reseller as well.
So why would a dealer sell Avionics on the eBay? Because they can. These guys install a ton of new equipment and like most avionics shops they take trade-ins on the old equipment. What do they do with these trade-ins? Sometimes they use them for parts, sometimes they hang onto them for spares and sometimes they sell them on eBay. Many shops will yellow tag (FAA Form 8130) the unit and provide a warranty making the purchase perfectly legal to install in a certificated airplane. You can also purchase non-yellow tagged equipment and take it to a local avionics shop to test and yellow tag for a nominal fee.
Another point of consideration is that Garmin will not let their dealers sell new equipment without installing it (except for the experimental market); however, you can buy used equipment from dealers. It is much easier and quicker for a dealer to turn hardware for profit if they don't have to install it. I was pleasantly surprised to find a good selection of Garmin systems on eBay. You have to be careful, but they are there. In fact, I was able to find a yellow tagged GNS430 (NON WAAS) on ebay from JA Air Center. I bought the unit for $4000, paid $1500 to upgrade it to WAAS and got a full Garmin Backed 1 year warranty. In other words I paid $5500 for a perfect condition unit that would have cost $7995 -- saving $3505!
The key on eBay is to take your time and research the seller and what they are selling. You don't want to purchase stolen equipment. Not only is it illegal to poses, you won't be able to ever get it serviced. A call to the manufacture with the serial number of the unit can tell this tell. If the seller won't give it to you or has a low feedback score walk away.
Dealers are not the only people selling on eBay. You can also sell your old equipment as well. I was able to pull enough equipment out of 36G to make a huge dent in the upgrade cost. The King Silver Crown equipment in 36G sadly is still very much in use. For me a KNS-80 RNAV wasn't very useful, but I got $1500 for it on eBay. The KR-87 ADF is nearly a boat Anchor, but I got $1200 for it on eBay. I even got $100 for the old wind up clock with a broken knob! After selling my dated equipment, I generated enough money to pay for the GNS430 and several other items needed for my Technically Advanced Aircraft project.
To conclude this segment, I want to talk a bit about deferring costs for installation. You do not have to go to an Avionics Shop to install Avionics. They are a good resource, but generally price their work on the high-end. A licensed Airframe Mechanic can also install avionics. Clearly wiring avionics is different than doing a compression check, but you most certainly can find many mechanics that have the appropriate skills to do this work if you ask around.
It is common knowledge that Experimental owners can do just about anything to their airplanes, but you may not realize that owners of certificated aircraft can technically install avionics and even do major repairs as well. An owner can do anything to their plane they like -- they own it. They just cannot return it to service. An Airframe Mechanic can supervise the work and complete the paperwork necessary to return the aircraft to service. Many mechanics are happy to work with owners on projects like these. I've known people that have completely dismantled their airplane and put it back together again without a license. You don't have to hold an A&P to be a skilled craftsman. You simply need to have someone that is appropriately licensed to asses the workmanship, regulatory compliance, and complete the paperwork.
Some owners, however, may be a bit reluctant to get into complex wiring or they don't have all of the specialized crimp tools required to complete the job. There are many company's that sell avionics to the experimental market, such as Pacific Coast Avionics, that will build the harness for a nominal fee. The advantage to doing this is that you know it will work when you get it and it will considerably reduce the time required to complete the project. Outsourcing the harness build will effectively turn an Avionics upgrade project into a remove and replace operation. Connect power, headset plugs, antenna cables, mount the trays, etc. and you're done.
The next step in the series is to plan the install...
It is nice to be in a position to walk into an avionics shop and buy new equipment from a dealer; however, new equipment comes with a new price tag. Saving a few bucks isn't the focus for my Mooney project, but keeping the aircraft in line with market value is important to keep in mind. For example, the Vref aircraft valuation service adds $5,000 to the value of 36G if a GNS430 or 530 is installed. A new 430 cost $7,995 at Pacific Coast ($10,195 installed). If you pay full retail you take an immediate 50% loss if you buy a new 430 from an Avionics shop. If you buy a 530 you are loosing about 2/3's your initial investment.
The airplanes we are upgrading are used. Installing good serviceable used equipment is certainly an option for owners with a tight budget or that may want to sell the airplane in the near future. The better the avionics the easier it is to sell a used airplane. One with dated equipment will likely go below market value and/or sit on the market for months.
When I started my TAA project I was surprised to learn that there is a big market selling used and new avionics on eBay. Your first thought maybe similar to mine -- all they sell is junk on eBay. This is somewhat true; however, there are also many deals to be had. In fact, there are quite a few reputable dealers that regularly sell used avionics on eBay such as JA Air Center and Pacific Coast Avionics eBay stores. JA Air Center is the #1 Garmin reseller in the world and PCA is a well regarded avionic and pilot supply reseller as well.
So why would a dealer sell Avionics on the eBay? Because they can. These guys install a ton of new equipment and like most avionics shops they take trade-ins on the old equipment. What do they do with these trade-ins? Sometimes they use them for parts, sometimes they hang onto them for spares and sometimes they sell them on eBay. Many shops will yellow tag (FAA Form 8130) the unit and provide a warranty making the purchase perfectly legal to install in a certificated airplane. You can also purchase non-yellow tagged equipment and take it to a local avionics shop to test and yellow tag for a nominal fee.
Another point of consideration is that Garmin will not let their dealers sell new equipment without installing it (except for the experimental market); however, you can buy used equipment from dealers. It is much easier and quicker for a dealer to turn hardware for profit if they don't have to install it. I was pleasantly surprised to find a good selection of Garmin systems on eBay. You have to be careful, but they are there. In fact, I was able to find a yellow tagged GNS430 (NON WAAS) on ebay from JA Air Center. I bought the unit for $4000, paid $1500 to upgrade it to WAAS and got a full Garmin Backed 1 year warranty. In other words I paid $5500 for a perfect condition unit that would have cost $7995 -- saving $3505!
The key on eBay is to take your time and research the seller and what they are selling. You don't want to purchase stolen equipment. Not only is it illegal to poses, you won't be able to ever get it serviced. A call to the manufacture with the serial number of the unit can tell this tell. If the seller won't give it to you or has a low feedback score walk away.
Dealers are not the only people selling on eBay. You can also sell your old equipment as well. I was able to pull enough equipment out of 36G to make a huge dent in the upgrade cost. The King Silver Crown equipment in 36G sadly is still very much in use. For me a KNS-80 RNAV wasn't very useful, but I got $1500 for it on eBay. The KR-87 ADF is nearly a boat Anchor, but I got $1200 for it on eBay. I even got $100 for the old wind up clock with a broken knob! After selling my dated equipment, I generated enough money to pay for the GNS430 and several other items needed for my Technically Advanced Aircraft project.
To conclude this segment, I want to talk a bit about deferring costs for installation. You do not have to go to an Avionics Shop to install Avionics. They are a good resource, but generally price their work on the high-end. A licensed Airframe Mechanic can also install avionics. Clearly wiring avionics is different than doing a compression check, but you most certainly can find many mechanics that have the appropriate skills to do this work if you ask around.
It is common knowledge that Experimental owners can do just about anything to their airplanes, but you may not realize that owners of certificated aircraft can technically install avionics and even do major repairs as well. An owner can do anything to their plane they like -- they own it. They just cannot return it to service. An Airframe Mechanic can supervise the work and complete the paperwork necessary to return the aircraft to service. Many mechanics are happy to work with owners on projects like these. I've known people that have completely dismantled their airplane and put it back together again without a license. You don't have to hold an A&P to be a skilled craftsman. You simply need to have someone that is appropriately licensed to asses the workmanship, regulatory compliance, and complete the paperwork.
Some owners, however, may be a bit reluctant to get into complex wiring or they don't have all of the specialized crimp tools required to complete the job. There are many company's that sell avionics to the experimental market, such as Pacific Coast Avionics, that will build the harness for a nominal fee. The advantage to doing this is that you know it will work when you get it and it will considerably reduce the time required to complete the project. Outsourcing the harness build will effectively turn an Avionics upgrade project into a remove and replace operation. Connect power, headset plugs, antenna cables, mount the trays, etc. and you're done.
The next step in the series is to plan the install...
Friday, December 01, 2006
Avionics Upgrade - Part 2
What makes a technically advanced airplane (TAA) technically advanced? I'm sure there are different opinions on this subject, but in my opinion a TAA airplane has systems that talk to each other in order to share information whereas traditional aircraft systems are stand-alone. To expand on this, a TAA would have to have a minimum of an IFR Certified GPS, Multi-function Display (MFD) and other systems that exchange information between units.
Integration is the key to achieving the TAA goal, so what should I get? There are a million and one systems you can stuff in an airplane. The key is to minimize weight and get the biggest return on the investment.
Decision 1, GPS? There are a lot of GPS's on the market, but in reality only one manufacturer -- Garmin. The choice is relatively easy with this one. Get a GNS-430 or GNS-530. Garmin also sells the Apollo GNS-480, but they aren't going out of their way to enhance it. Stick with the tried and true 430/530. They are easy to use, powerful and naturally train you to jump to a G1000 system. The UI of a G1000 is very similar.
Decision 2, WAAS. Wide Area Augmentation is an absolute now days. The FAA is adding LPV (Localizer Performance with Vertical Guidence) virtually every day. What does this mean? You can get ILS minimums with a glidelsope like bar off of your GPS! At some point if you don't have WAAS you won't be able to fly IFR. It is too costly to maintain legacy navaids. It is only a matter of time and they will be gone forever. The simple choice is if you are putting in a GPS -- put in a WAAS unit. If you have a GPS, upgrade it to WAAS.
Decision 3, the GPS decision is easy, the WAAS decision is easy, which one should I get? A 430 or a 530? From a capability perspective the GNS-430 & 530 are basically the same units. The only difference is the 530 has a bigger display. It is nice having a big display, but the resolution is nowhere near a dedicated MFD. A MFD is designed to maximize screen real estate and the 530 also takes up a lot of potential screen area due to the com/nav knobs. I wanted a TAA and I wanted an MFD. If I had a Bonanza I could do it all, but a Mooney simply does not have the panel space to do a 430/530/MFD. I decided to go with the 430/MFD combo. At the time the MX-20 was the only Garmin option. Now they have the GMX-200. If I were doing this project today, the GMX-200 would be the best choice.
Decision 4, should I get 2 430's or just one and keep the KX-165? A lot of people install two 430's or a 430/530, but to me this doesn't make since if you already have a solid IFR nav/com. To be legal to fly IFR, you have to update both radios. Jeppesen gives a discount for the second radio in the same plane, but this is a pain to do every 28 days. Why update the MFD & two GPS's when in most cases you can do everything you need with the MFD/GPS? It does add redundancy, but it also add material cost to the project. My decision was to update the KX165 by adding a glideslope card and change the indicator to a KI-206 (w/glideslope). The KX165 is a solid radio that provides redundant IFR capabilities. I decided to keep it, but I will allocate space when I designed the panel to swap it out later if necessary.
Decision 5, what should I do with the transponder? I have a perfectly working KT-76A transponder. The unit had no problems, but at some point it would need to be replaced. The 76A's have a tube in them that must be energized for the unit to work. These tubes eventually fail and it costs more to replace than a new unit. It also takes the tube awhile to charge up before the unit will work. At some point we will all need Mode-S to fly into busy airspace. I live in Chicago, so I decided to install a GTX-330 Garmin Mode-S transponder with TIS. The Traffic Information Service is going to eventually be phased out, but it will be several years before Chicago gets downsized. I figure I can benefit from TIS as long as it's around and move to ADS-B when they get better coverage in the states. I will design the panel to enable me to remove the transponder when it becomes obsolete/replaced. For now, however, the GTX330 is the best choice.
Decision 6, what audio panel do I need? I actually made this decision right after I got the plane, but it was a decision that had to be made. The plane originally had the standard KMA-24 audio panel installed. This was a very good unit, but didn't have an intercom. I like taking long trips so audio quality is important. The PS Engineering line has the best audio quality of any intercom. They hold many patents on their technology. This decision may take me away form an "all Garmin" stack, but PSE is the best choice if sound is important to you. Radios, music, voices, etc. are better with PSE than anything available. They have a couple of different versions, but I landed on the PMA-7000b. I picked this one originally because it had the same wire connector as the KMA24, which made my initial retrofit easier. The PMA-8000 is also a very solid unit. If I were doing the wiring from scratch I would have picked the PMA8000.
Decision 7, weather... No question we want weather. XM Weather has changed the GA world. It isn't going to help you navigate through a line of T-Storms, but it most certainly will keep you out of them. The power and freedom that WX in the cockpit adds is the second best innovation in GA (just behind the GPS) in my near 20 years as an aviator. This was an easy decision. Garmin makes a rock solid GDL-69(A). The A is for Audio. Pay a bit more and you can get XM Radio stations piped down to you. Of course, I went with the GDL69A, which is fully integrated with the MX20. You can change radio stations, select weather, etc. directly off of the MFD.
Decision 8, Should I keep the KR-87 ADF, WX-900 Stormscope and other legacy radios. Nope. This equipment adds weight. Why keep it? The ADF will soon be a boat anchor and the WX900 is nice, but it is a one-off stand-alone unit. It cannot be integrated with the MFD or GPS. I decided that XM Weather is all I need for now, but I will allocate space on the Avionics shelf in the rear of the plane to add a WX-500 later. The WX500 fully integrates with the MX20, so it doesn't take up precious panel space.
The fun part is complete. The decision has been made about what I want. I will remove the old equipment, but keep the HSI, Flight Director, Auto Pilot and upgrade the KX165. I will add a WAAS GPS, MFD, Mode-S Transponder and XM WX/Radio.
Integration is the key to achieving the TAA goal, so what should I get? There are a million and one systems you can stuff in an airplane. The key is to minimize weight and get the biggest return on the investment.
Decision 1, GPS? There are a lot of GPS's on the market, but in reality only one manufacturer -- Garmin. The choice is relatively easy with this one. Get a GNS-430 or GNS-530. Garmin also sells the Apollo GNS-480, but they aren't going out of their way to enhance it. Stick with the tried and true 430/530. They are easy to use, powerful and naturally train you to jump to a G1000 system. The UI of a G1000 is very similar.
Decision 2, WAAS. Wide Area Augmentation is an absolute now days. The FAA is adding LPV (Localizer Performance with Vertical Guidence) virtually every day. What does this mean? You can get ILS minimums with a glidelsope like bar off of your GPS! At some point if you don't have WAAS you won't be able to fly IFR. It is too costly to maintain legacy navaids. It is only a matter of time and they will be gone forever. The simple choice is if you are putting in a GPS -- put in a WAAS unit. If you have a GPS, upgrade it to WAAS.
Decision 3, the GPS decision is easy, the WAAS decision is easy, which one should I get? A 430 or a 530? From a capability perspective the GNS-430 & 530 are basically the same units. The only difference is the 530 has a bigger display. It is nice having a big display, but the resolution is nowhere near a dedicated MFD. A MFD is designed to maximize screen real estate and the 530 also takes up a lot of potential screen area due to the com/nav knobs. I wanted a TAA and I wanted an MFD. If I had a Bonanza I could do it all, but a Mooney simply does not have the panel space to do a 430/530/MFD. I decided to go with the 430/MFD combo. At the time the MX-20 was the only Garmin option. Now they have the GMX-200. If I were doing this project today, the GMX-200 would be the best choice.
Decision 4, should I get 2 430's or just one and keep the KX-165? A lot of people install two 430's or a 430/530, but to me this doesn't make since if you already have a solid IFR nav/com. To be legal to fly IFR, you have to update both radios. Jeppesen gives a discount for the second radio in the same plane, but this is a pain to do every 28 days. Why update the MFD & two GPS's when in most cases you can do everything you need with the MFD/GPS? It does add redundancy, but it also add material cost to the project. My decision was to update the KX165 by adding a glideslope card and change the indicator to a KI-206 (w/glideslope). The KX165 is a solid radio that provides redundant IFR capabilities. I decided to keep it, but I will allocate space when I designed the panel to swap it out later if necessary.
Decision 5, what should I do with the transponder? I have a perfectly working KT-76A transponder. The unit had no problems, but at some point it would need to be replaced. The 76A's have a tube in them that must be energized for the unit to work. These tubes eventually fail and it costs more to replace than a new unit. It also takes the tube awhile to charge up before the unit will work. At some point we will all need Mode-S to fly into busy airspace. I live in Chicago, so I decided to install a GTX-330 Garmin Mode-S transponder with TIS. The Traffic Information Service is going to eventually be phased out, but it will be several years before Chicago gets downsized. I figure I can benefit from TIS as long as it's around and move to ADS-B when they get better coverage in the states. I will design the panel to enable me to remove the transponder when it becomes obsolete/replaced. For now, however, the GTX330 is the best choice.
Decision 6, what audio panel do I need? I actually made this decision right after I got the plane, but it was a decision that had to be made. The plane originally had the standard KMA-24 audio panel installed. This was a very good unit, but didn't have an intercom. I like taking long trips so audio quality is important. The PS Engineering line has the best audio quality of any intercom. They hold many patents on their technology. This decision may take me away form an "all Garmin" stack, but PSE is the best choice if sound is important to you. Radios, music, voices, etc. are better with PSE than anything available. They have a couple of different versions, but I landed on the PMA-7000b. I picked this one originally because it had the same wire connector as the KMA24, which made my initial retrofit easier. The PMA-8000 is also a very solid unit. If I were doing the wiring from scratch I would have picked the PMA8000.
Decision 7, weather... No question we want weather. XM Weather has changed the GA world. It isn't going to help you navigate through a line of T-Storms, but it most certainly will keep you out of them. The power and freedom that WX in the cockpit adds is the second best innovation in GA (just behind the GPS) in my near 20 years as an aviator. This was an easy decision. Garmin makes a rock solid GDL-69(A). The A is for Audio. Pay a bit more and you can get XM Radio stations piped down to you. Of course, I went with the GDL69A, which is fully integrated with the MX20. You can change radio stations, select weather, etc. directly off of the MFD.
Decision 8, Should I keep the KR-87 ADF, WX-900 Stormscope and other legacy radios. Nope. This equipment adds weight. Why keep it? The ADF will soon be a boat anchor and the WX900 is nice, but it is a one-off stand-alone unit. It cannot be integrated with the MFD or GPS. I decided that XM Weather is all I need for now, but I will allocate space on the Avionics shelf in the rear of the plane to add a WX-500 later. The WX500 fully integrates with the MX20, so it doesn't take up precious panel space.
The fun part is complete. The decision has been made about what I want. I will remove the old equipment, but keep the HSI, Flight Director, Auto Pilot and upgrade the KX165. I will add a WAAS GPS, MFD, Mode-S Transponder and XM WX/Radio.
Wednesday, November 01, 2006
Avionics Upgrade - Part 1
There has been a big shift over the past few years of people buying new airplanes instead of used. Not too long ago if you wanted a plane it had to be used unless you wanted a jet or Million dollar Bonanza. We can think the Cirrus guys for this one. They created the Technically Advanced Airplane for General Aviation and nearly single-handily turned the industry around. Up until the SR20 was introduced advanced avionics in a light plane was only a dream. Sure we had LORAN and GPS with small moving maps, but the aircraft systems were not integrated until Cirrus did it. This shift, however, has caused buyers and pilots to expect, and be dependent on, advanced avionics. We want the technology and simply can't get it in most used airplanes.
My wife and I were Cirrus owners for awhile and loved the airplane. We were spoiled flying around with a glass panel and huge multi-function display; however, when we did the math the return on our investment was dismal at best. Cirrus has a high hull value, has more accidents than the typical high-performance plane, etc., which pushes insurance costs through the roof. The acquisition cost is also well north of $500K and maintenance is very high as well. Cirrus did many things right, but is it really worth the cost? What are you actually buying and why?
When I asked myself these questions it turned out that what we really wanted was the avionics and speed. Generally speaking most of our trips are me, my wife and a few bags. Having surplus cabin room and payload is nice, but why carry the extra space when you don't need it? Fuel burn on the big-bore engine is also a big consideration. Burning 20+ GPH to get a cruse speed of maybe 160 KTAS isn't environmentally friendly or efficient. The overhaul cost of a big bore is also very expensive.
Do we really need live with all of these negatives just for nice avionics and a fast plane? The simple answer is no. There are many solid used planes on the market and avionic upgrades are available to anyone. Buy right and put the money into the panel. No question there are some deals to be found on the used market. You may pay a bit more over what you would get if you sell the plane, but you're probably not going to get what you paid for a new plane out of a new plane either.
The more we analyzed our mission the more we realized that the Cirrus was not the best plane for us. A used fast airplane is a better. We love the Bonanza line, but parts & maintenance is very costly and they have also have a high operating cost. We landed (pun intended) on the Mooney because of its speed, efficiency, low maintenance costs and capabilities. However, finding a Mooney that is Technically Advanced is not an easy task unless you buy a new one. If I were buying a new one, however, in my opinion the Mooney is a much better bang for the buck than a Cirrus. They fly higher, faster, are technically advanced and maintenance and insurance is a fraction of what you would Pay for a Cirrus. I will write more on this subject later. For now, on to avionics...
Ok, we bought the Mooney...no big surprise there, but what Mooney? I wanted to buy a plane that was as close to factory original as I could find. Avionic shops often cut corners when installing equipment, so my buying decision wasn't based on whats in the panel. My decision was based on buying a sound airplane that will carry us safely to wherever we decide to go. I wanted a clean slate to start from. We're restoring the best Mooney ever after all.
36G is as close to factory original as any Mooney I could find. She had 627 hours of total time on the airframe and engine, which is basically new. The only avionics work that was completed on her was adding a WX900 stormscope and an Apollo NMS 2001 Loran/GPS receiver. I would have preferred to find something that never had avionics installed or altered, but that's a tall order when looking at 18 year old airplanes. I had to comprise a bit, but this was a plane I couldn't pass up.
As you can see, N5236G has a respectable panel with top-self 1980's avionics, but she's not even close to technically advanced. 36G does have a flight director and HSI, which is basically the analog version of a PFD and an exceptional KFC-150 autopilot. Retrofitting the bird with a PFD wouldn't make since and the Autopilot is good as well. Everything else is fair game. The decision is clear to upgrade...what should I do...?
My wife and I were Cirrus owners for awhile and loved the airplane. We were spoiled flying around with a glass panel and huge multi-function display; however, when we did the math the return on our investment was dismal at best. Cirrus has a high hull value, has more accidents than the typical high-performance plane, etc., which pushes insurance costs through the roof. The acquisition cost is also well north of $500K and maintenance is very high as well. Cirrus did many things right, but is it really worth the cost? What are you actually buying and why?
When I asked myself these questions it turned out that what we really wanted was the avionics and speed. Generally speaking most of our trips are me, my wife and a few bags. Having surplus cabin room and payload is nice, but why carry the extra space when you don't need it? Fuel burn on the big-bore engine is also a big consideration. Burning 20+ GPH to get a cruse speed of maybe 160 KTAS isn't environmentally friendly or efficient. The overhaul cost of a big bore is also very expensive.
Do we really need live with all of these negatives just for nice avionics and a fast plane? The simple answer is no. There are many solid used planes on the market and avionic upgrades are available to anyone. Buy right and put the money into the panel. No question there are some deals to be found on the used market. You may pay a bit more over what you would get if you sell the plane, but you're probably not going to get what you paid for a new plane out of a new plane either.
The more we analyzed our mission the more we realized that the Cirrus was not the best plane for us. A used fast airplane is a better. We love the Bonanza line, but parts & maintenance is very costly and they have also have a high operating cost. We landed (pun intended) on the Mooney because of its speed, efficiency, low maintenance costs and capabilities. However, finding a Mooney that is Technically Advanced is not an easy task unless you buy a new one. If I were buying a new one, however, in my opinion the Mooney is a much better bang for the buck than a Cirrus. They fly higher, faster, are technically advanced and maintenance and insurance is a fraction of what you would Pay for a Cirrus. I will write more on this subject later. For now, on to avionics...
Ok, we bought the Mooney...no big surprise there, but what Mooney? I wanted to buy a plane that was as close to factory original as I could find. Avionic shops often cut corners when installing equipment, so my buying decision wasn't based on whats in the panel. My decision was based on buying a sound airplane that will carry us safely to wherever we decide to go. I wanted a clean slate to start from. We're restoring the best Mooney ever after all.
36G is as close to factory original as any Mooney I could find. She had 627 hours of total time on the airframe and engine, which is basically new. The only avionics work that was completed on her was adding a WX900 stormscope and an Apollo NMS 2001 Loran/GPS receiver. I would have preferred to find something that never had avionics installed or altered, but that's a tall order when looking at 18 year old airplanes. I had to comprise a bit, but this was a plane I couldn't pass up.
As you can see, N5236G has a respectable panel with top-self 1980's avionics, but she's not even close to technically advanced. 36G does have a flight director and HSI, which is basically the analog version of a PFD and an exceptional KFC-150 autopilot. Retrofitting the bird with a PFD wouldn't make since and the Autopilot is good as well. Everything else is fair game. The decision is clear to upgrade...what should I do...?
Friday, September 08, 2006
The Dreaded Annual - Part 5
I am writing this series in an accelerated manor, but needles to say it took awhile to finish 36G's first annual. In fact, it took about an annual to do the annual. That said, however, it was worth every minute. 36G's bad rivets days are behind her. She is a top notch machine now. She's probably more in spec now than when she came off of the assembly line.
Here are some photos of the work in progress:
36G was a convertible for awhile as we pulled the roof to make the new thick glass fit better.
The above is the new super sound deading insulation. What a great job! Every inch of the surface is covered. This is much better that the cheap insulation that came with her. Add in the 10x thicker glass and we will get 10db or better sound reduction in the cockpit. 
The above is a picture of the horizontal/vertical stabilizer off of the plane an on a saw horse!And here she is now...
Check out that glass, the paint, the everything! Wow what a difference. From an airframe perspective 36G is back and better than ever. She's actually getting 5 knots better than book true air speed and flys perfectly straight. The Midwest Mooney team nailed it!
Next on the list is upgrading the circa 1980's avionics...
Saturday, July 08, 2006
The Dreaded Annual - Part 4
With every annual, there comes a time when the owner gets the dreaded call from the IA -- their findings! This is when they let you know everything they found when they did the inspection. Some things may be necessary for flight safety/airworthiness and other things may simply be not exactly right or will need attention soon. The call I had with Kevin is the same one many owners face at every first annual on a used plane.
The conversation went something like this:
Kevin: Hi Jim, this is Kevin.
Jim: Hi Kevin, how'd she do?
Kevin: Are you sitting down?
Jim: No I'm hanging up! What kind-of question is that?
Kevin: We got much deeper into your plane than we typically do in order to get a close look at the previous hail damage repair. The work is airworthy and has passed 4 or 5 previous annuals, but it isn't as good as what I believe you are looking for. We found some rivets that were not bucked perfectly and the ailerons are in factory spec, but not as straight as they should be. This is probably what is causing your adverse yaw. Jim, this is all safe and the plane isn't going to fall out of the sky. You have a beautiful, low-time, 252. One of the best that we've seen in a long time.. They just didn't do the work as well as it could have been done.
Jim: You're kidding -- Right?
Kevin: I wish I was. This work is legal and I'm comfortable signing it off, but not as good or better than factory new.
Jim: well you know we're trying to make her as good as or better than new. We've got to fix this right. Can you fix it?
Kevin: Jim we can nearly build Mooney's from scratch here. We have the equipment, parts and skilled craftsman with many years of Mooney expertise. We believe we are one of the best Mooney shops in the world. All we do is work on Mooney's. We can do the work, but are you sure you want us to get into this? It will take a lot of time, we will have to pull the interior and it will be costly.
Jim: Yep, I'm sure. Go ahead and do it. And since you have to pull the interior, go ahead and install 1/4" windows, inspect the tubular frame and upgrade the cabin sound proofing.
Kevin: ok, we'll get started on it today. I also noticed, but am afraid to mention, that the tail is starting to show some wiggle. It is fine for now, but will probably have to be pulled in 300 hours or so.
Jim: Do it! I want this plane to look and fly perfectly. Best to do it now and get it over with.
Kevin: We'll take care of it. The rest of the annual went very well. Your squawk list was good. We found a few issues such as rusted screws and a couple of cam loc's were missing in the cowl.
Jim: Thank you. Take the time, do it right. We can't take the next steps in the restoration project until the airframe is in perfect condition.
At the end of the day, I didn't have to do all of this work. It is very costly to pull the tail, drill rivets, etc., but I want her to be perfect. They only made a few hundred 252's ever. Some have been wrecked, some haven't flown in years, some have been eaten up by corrosion, etc. This one is going to be one of the best, if not the best, M20K 252 in the world.
The conversation went something like this:
Kevin: Hi Jim, this is Kevin.
Jim: Hi Kevin, how'd she do?
Kevin: Are you sitting down?
Jim: No I'm hanging up! What kind-of question is that?
Kevin: We got much deeper into your plane than we typically do in order to get a close look at the previous hail damage repair. The work is airworthy and has passed 4 or 5 previous annuals, but it isn't as good as what I believe you are looking for. We found some rivets that were not bucked perfectly and the ailerons are in factory spec, but not as straight as they should be. This is probably what is causing your adverse yaw. Jim, this is all safe and the plane isn't going to fall out of the sky. You have a beautiful, low-time, 252. One of the best that we've seen in a long time.. They just didn't do the work as well as it could have been done.
Jim: You're kidding -- Right?
Kevin: I wish I was. This work is legal and I'm comfortable signing it off, but not as good or better than factory new.
Jim: well you know we're trying to make her as good as or better than new. We've got to fix this right. Can you fix it?
Kevin: Jim we can nearly build Mooney's from scratch here. We have the equipment, parts and skilled craftsman with many years of Mooney expertise. We believe we are one of the best Mooney shops in the world. All we do is work on Mooney's. We can do the work, but are you sure you want us to get into this? It will take a lot of time, we will have to pull the interior and it will be costly.
Jim: Yep, I'm sure. Go ahead and do it. And since you have to pull the interior, go ahead and install 1/4" windows, inspect the tubular frame and upgrade the cabin sound proofing.
Kevin: ok, we'll get started on it today. I also noticed, but am afraid to mention, that the tail is starting to show some wiggle. It is fine for now, but will probably have to be pulled in 300 hours or so.
Jim: Do it! I want this plane to look and fly perfectly. Best to do it now and get it over with.
Kevin: We'll take care of it. The rest of the annual went very well. Your squawk list was good. We found a few issues such as rusted screws and a couple of cam loc's were missing in the cowl.
Jim: Thank you. Take the time, do it right. We can't take the next steps in the restoration project until the airframe is in perfect condition.
At the end of the day, I didn't have to do all of this work. It is very costly to pull the tail, drill rivets, etc., but I want her to be perfect. They only made a few hundred 252's ever. Some have been wrecked, some haven't flown in years, some have been eaten up by corrosion, etc. This one is going to be one of the best, if not the best, M20K 252 in the world.
Thursday, June 08, 2006
The Dreaded Annual - Part 3
The decision was made to go to Midwest Mooney for the Annual. The next step in the process is to decided what you need done. The best way to figure this out is to keep a notebook in the plane and track everything you don't like or have questions about.
My goals with 36G is more lofty than most (want the best ever), so I'm a bit more particular than you have to be. I have a trained eye and am very critical about anything that isn't "Perfect." You can't be the best if you don't have the best!
As I've mentioned earlier, you have to be licensed to do anything that would be considered airworthy on an airplane; however, you can do work without being an A&P. How you ask? By working under the direct supervision of a licensed mechanic. A lot of owners drop off their plane and say fix it, but I sincerely believe they are missing the boat. Not only are they spending money unnecessarily, they aren't taking advantage of an awesome learning opportunity -- finding out what makes the plane tick. The more you know, the better equipped you are to handle an emergency. Knowledge is power!
Most maintenance shops welcome Owner Assisted Annuals (OAA). It is inefficient for them to pay a trained mechanic to remove inspection panels, drain oil, etc. An owner can save major $$ just by removing and reinstalling the pieces parts. Step it up a bit by changing the brakes, oil, filters, etc. and you save even more while learning how everything fits together in the process. This education opportunity could save your life if a filter gets clogged and you know how the alternate air is rigged or the difference in using the emergency/parking brake versus the ones on the peddles...
Midwest Mooney is a great shop. If you can hang with them...they welcome owner assisted annuals. In fact, it's better if an owner can see what they see and make the decision right then and there to fix or defer the issue. OAA's save money, are faster and teaches you how things work...Need I say more ;)
I had already fixed many of the small items, but wanted Kevin and team to look at things that I didn't have time to fix or where I had questions that my experience couldn't answer. I also let them do the full annual on their own. I didn't want to slant their findings one way or the other.
36G's squawk list:
Now my list is complete, it's time to turn her over to the professionals...
My goals with 36G is more lofty than most (want the best ever), so I'm a bit more particular than you have to be. I have a trained eye and am very critical about anything that isn't "Perfect." You can't be the best if you don't have the best!
As I've mentioned earlier, you have to be licensed to do anything that would be considered airworthy on an airplane; however, you can do work without being an A&P. How you ask? By working under the direct supervision of a licensed mechanic. A lot of owners drop off their plane and say fix it, but I sincerely believe they are missing the boat. Not only are they spending money unnecessarily, they aren't taking advantage of an awesome learning opportunity -- finding out what makes the plane tick. The more you know, the better equipped you are to handle an emergency. Knowledge is power!
Most maintenance shops welcome Owner Assisted Annuals (OAA). It is inefficient for them to pay a trained mechanic to remove inspection panels, drain oil, etc. An owner can save major $$ just by removing and reinstalling the pieces parts. Step it up a bit by changing the brakes, oil, filters, etc. and you save even more while learning how everything fits together in the process. This education opportunity could save your life if a filter gets clogged and you know how the alternate air is rigged or the difference in using the emergency/parking brake versus the ones on the peddles...
Midwest Mooney is a great shop. If you can hang with them...they welcome owner assisted annuals. In fact, it's better if an owner can see what they see and make the decision right then and there to fix or defer the issue. OAA's save money, are faster and teaches you how things work...Need I say more ;)
I had already fixed many of the small items, but wanted Kevin and team to look at things that I didn't have time to fix or where I had questions that my experience couldn't answer. I also let them do the full annual on their own. I didn't want to slant their findings one way or the other.
36G's squawk list:
- Check the rigging. With wings level the ball on the turn coordinator is to the left 1/2 ball. If I step on the ball (left rudder) to center the plane goes into a left bank. It takes some cross-control to center the ball and fly level.
- When we change the oil I want to send a sample out to AOA. We had one sample pulled when we bought the plane, so I want to establish a solid baseline. I've been using Aeroshell 15w50. Please service with 15w50 when you change the oil.
- The engine idles at about 800 RPM. I have looked at the Throttle cable and it is at the end of travel and cannot be adjusted (idle set screw does not reach the stop). Please correct.
- RPM does not rise when mixture pulled to ICO. It may be due to the idle problem, but we need to get the mixture/idle/fuel flow set properly.
- The cabin air knob cable is tight and pulling out of the socket when pulled. The cable may need replaced or adjusted.
- I noticed that some of the spark plug cables are starting to be rounded off from mechanics not using the proper tools. Take a look at the cables and let me know if we should change the harness.
- I mentioned to you on the phone that the plane has had some sheet metal replaced due to hail damage. The repair looks o.k. to me, but take a look at it yourself. I want the repairs to be as good or better than factory new.
- I noticed on the JPI that the #6 cylinder is a bit cooler than the other cylinders. This could be a plug, injector, mag, wire, etc. Please take a look and let me know your thoughts.
- I've been looking at the oil lines and hoses. They are in good condition, but due to be replaced. Please replace all engine oil lines with Teflon lifetime hoses.
- Please pull all SB's on the plane and verify that they all have been complied with. Any SB that has not been completed, or not done properly, please correct.
- I noticed that the induction air intake has a small crack on the cowl (where induction air hose connects to the cowl). Please repair.
- I went through the O2 cylinder needs recertified. The regulator and the cylinder were replaced in May 2002. Please check certification and service.
Now my list is complete, it's time to turn her over to the professionals...
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